Italy is so – rightly – proud of its artisanal skills that the irreverence of Marco de Vincenzo came as a shock.
Faced with a shocking pink light bathing the show space, which segued into purple and blue, this show seemed “Enough already!” about colour. But the lighting was only the beginning.
De Vincenzo called his collection “Proud, man-made artificiality”. This is a storyteller who puts a focus on fashion’s third dimension: the surface.
Perhaps it was the background of 13 years in the studios of Fendi that made the designer so aware of the importance of working fabrics to the max, from a weave for a rust coat to a garish green skirt in a bubbly fabric that shrieked “fake”.
I liked this idea of challenging the taste level and the preciousness of fine clothes – as in a fur coat that mixed blood red, a foxy ginger and a neon green.
Marco de Vincenzo has already established himself as an interesting design spirit in Milan. But there is a feeling that he has still more to give.
En savoir plus sur http://en.vogue.fr/fashion-shows/defile/automne-hiver-2016-2017-milan-marco-de-vincenzo/16438#QQapVFITEWQdyF4d.99